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Hardware manicure step by step for beginners - preparation, tools and technique

Keeping your hands and nails clean is one of the basic rules of hygiene. A neat manicure prevents infection with fungi and bacteria, successfully complements everyday and evening looks. Both in professional nail art and in self-care, it is preferable to use a router.

Advantages of hardware manicure

The technique bypassed the demand for the European and classical way of working. Professional and home hardware manicure has a lot of advantages:

  1. Minimal injury. The risk of getting a chip, cracked nail, damage to the epidermis is close to zero, even if the masters are beginners.
  2. Rapidity. The milling cutter provides high speed, it will take 2 times less time than with classical and European technology.
  3. Quality. Cleaning the cuticle step by step slows down its growth, correction can be done less frequently.
  4. Simplicity. Any woman can master the basic technology. At first, it is recommended to slowly perform a hardware manicure step by step, there are video tutorials for beginners.
  5. Safety. The milling cutter works “dry” and without the use of cutting tools, which reduces the risk of infection.
  6. Payback. The device is beneficial both for earning beginners and for the purpose of home care.

Types of hardware manicure

There are 2 options for using a router during nail design training:

  1. Classic hardware manicure for beginners. It implies only automatic processing with abrasive nozzles and grinders, step by step. Some women prefer to combine it with the cut method.
  2. Combi manicure. Includes elements of the classics – the skin is lifted with cutters, and cut off manually with wire cutters. It is easier for a beginner to perform a combined hardware manicure step by step, for beginners there are detailed diagrams. The result of the combined technique is more “clean”.

What you need for hardware manicure

The main elements of the procedure are a milling cutter and nozzle burs. Additionally, a manicure for beginners will require the purchase of equipment and supplies:

  • exhaust fan;
  • dry heat or autoclave;
  • disinfectant solution;
  • brushes;
  • antiseptic;
  • gloves and masks;
  • orange sticks or pusher;
  • files, buffs;
  • paper towels;
  • gel polishes;
  • oil (for cuticles).

How to choose a nail cutter?

How to choose a manicure cutter

The cost of high-quality devices that will last a long time and are well-equipped, equipped with a warranty card, is high. It is better not to save on the device, a cheap machine for hardware manicure will quickly break down and will not pay off. Nail design masters recommend that beginners look at the middle price segment. What to pay attention to:

  1. Power. With personal use, 2-3 times a month, the device is enough for 35-50 watts. It is advisable for beginners to learn step by step to immediately purchase a powerful device, from 100 W and above.
  2. Set. Most manufacturers provide a set of cutters necessary to start.
  3. Number of turns. The speed of rotation of the nozzle for hardware manicure affects both the purity of the result and the speed of work. In home use, values ​​u200bu200bof up to 20 thousand revolutions per minute are acceptable, but novice craftsmen and professionals will need a number of revolutions from 35 thousand.
  4. The presence of a reverse function. Without this characteristic, it is not worth considering a milling cutter for purchase.
  5. Clamp on the handle. The cheapest types of machines are equipped with a manual “twist” in the form of a washer. More expensive and high-quality models have an automatic lock.
  6. Built-in extractor. Many modern appliances are equipped with a suction fan. This is convenient, but affects the cost of the device.

Cutters for hardware manicure – types

The classification of nozzles-burs is based on their size, shape, color of the belt (hardness) and material of manufacture. Beginning masters are advised to take a step-by-step training using small ceramic cutters for hardware manicure with a red or blue notch (soft and medium hardness). They are difficult to damage the horny plate and the surrounding skin. As you hone your skills, you can replace burs with more practical and durable counterparts made of carbide, diamond or corundum spraying.

What cutters are needed for hardware manicure for beginners – the minimum starter kit:

  • cylinders (plain and rounded);
  • cones (classic, truncated, reverse);
  • flame;
  • ball;
  • needle;
  • corn.

How to do a hardware manicure?

Improvement of technique and acceleration of work are achieved only by practice. First, you can perform a hardware manicure on yourself, or train step by step on artificial nails. The first attempts of novice nail masters to process plates to another person are best started using the softest cutters at low speeds of the machine. It will take a little more time, but the procedure will be performed both safely and efficiently.

Stages of hardware manicure

Stages of hardware manicure

Before practice, it is important for beginners to scrupulously familiarize themselves with the theory of manipulation, remember the sequence of actions. The basic stages of a hardware manicure should not be skipped, especially the stages related to hygiene and safety. It is advisable to immediately prepare a comfortable workplace and equipment that will be needed in the process. Hardware manicure step by step for beginners includes the following steps:

  • antiseptic treatment;
  • removal of the old coating;
  • correction of the length and shape of the horny plate;
  • pushing back the cuticle;
  • elevation of excess skin, including membranous pterygium;
  • cleaning the cuticle;
  • elaboration of the contours of the base of the nail, pockets and sinuses;
  • grinding of side rollers;
  • surface polishing;
  • removal of dust and epidermis;
  • varnishing (if planned);
  • moisturizing cuticle oil.

After the procedure, all cutters must be thoroughly cleaned, which involves 3 stages:

  1. Disinfection. The tool is soaked in a special solution.
  2. Washing and drying. Liquid with dissolved remnants of skin and nails merges. The cutters are washed with water using a brush, and then dried on a napkin.
  3. Sterilization. The equipment is placed in an autoclave or dry heat.

Rules for performing hardware manicure

Hardware manicure at home or in the salon, performed by beginners or experienced craftsmen, should be based on the following rules:

  1. The instrument is sterile, hands are disinfected.
  2. For natural inserts, only soft and medium cutters are used.
  3. Work is carried out on the reverse – if the nozzle is spinning to the right, the master moves it to the left. Hardware manicure step by step for beginners and professionals obeys one law – first, half of all nails on the hand are processed in one direction, after which the device switches, and the procedure is done for the second part of the plates.
  4. The cutters are placed parallel to the surface or at a 45 degree angle to prevent sawing.
  5. All movements are light, along tangent lines. During stripping cuticles and polishing – repulsive.
  6. The technique of performing a hardware manicure step by step prohibits holding the bur for more than 5 seconds at one point. It is better to return to it later.
  7. At the end of the work, it is important to remove all removed tissue with a brush and check the quality of the result.

Step-by-step implementation of hardware manicure

Impeccable adherence to technology is a guarantee of high-quality results and complete safety. If you follow these recommendations, even the first manipulation will not cause difficulties. Hardware manicure step by step:

  1. Apply an antiseptic to your hands. Prepare all necessary equipment. Before doing a hardware manicure, it is important for beginners to make sure that all tools are sterilized.
  2. Remove the old corn gel coating.
  3. Use files and cylindrical cutters to adjust the length and shape of the plates.
  4. Push back the cuticle with a pusher or stick.
  5. Raise the skin and films with a “needle” and “flame”, clean out the pterygium.
  6. Remove the cuticle layer by layer with a ball.
  7. Use cones and a rounded cylinder to work out the rollers on the sides, remove calluses.
  8. Sand the skin and surface of the nail (if necessary).
  9. Sweep away dust and epidermis with a brush.
  10. Re-treat your hands with an antiseptic.


Cuticle care after hardware manicure

The presented variation of removing excess epidermis is considered safe and suitable even for very thin skin. The hardware manicure acts as gently as possible, the cuticle is not damaged by the cut, it is evenly polished and slowly grows back. Special skin care is not needed, only a moisturizing and nourishing oil or cream with similar properties.

Errors when performing hardware manicure

Novice nail designers do not immediately become masters, so misses are inevitable. With experience, the correct hardware manicure will be performed step by step “on the machine”, but in the early stages, beginners often make the following mistakes:

  • high speeds;
  • low quality tool;
  • neglect of sterilization;
  • use of unsuitable or too hard cutters;
  • incorrect hand position;
  • no breaks in work (needed every 6-8 minutes);
  • cutter delay in one place for more than 5 seconds;
  • work on a wet nail;
  • applying oil before the procedure.



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