Facial hydrophilic oil - how to choose the best and how to cook at home?

Thanks to the Asian beauty industry, skin care has risen to a whole new level. One of the best products invented by Korean beauticians is hydrophilic oil. It quickly gained popularity among women of all ages and moved into the category of must-haves.

Facial hydrophilic oil – what is it?

The agent in question looks like a liquid and translucent substance. Visually, it looks like a simple vegetable fat, but its features appear if you apply a hydrophilic oil for washing – what it is becomes clear at the end of the makeup removal procedure. On contact with water, this product foams slightly and becomes an emulsion. It rinses off easily without leaving a greasy film on the skin. A better understanding of the essence and purpose of the described cosmetics will help the study of its components.

Hydrophilic oil – composition

Each manufacturer of the described product uses different additives according to the type of skin and its needs. Any hydrophilic facial oil is based on 3 groups of ingredients:

  1. Natural vegetable fats – take care of the epidermis and deeply cleanse it.
  2. Mineral oil – prevents drying of the skin, prevents peeling and irritation.
  3. Emulsifiers (polysorbate 20 or 80) – make cosmetics soluble in water and easily rinsed off.

What are the benefits of hydrophilic oil?

The main purpose of the product was to remove BB and CC creams from the face. Later, hydrophilic oil was used to remove all types of makeup, including waterproof cosmetics. The mechanism of action is the deep penetration of vegetable fats into the pores, the dissolution of sebum, the absorption of dust and microscopic debris. After contact with a small amount of water, the oil is converted into an emulsion, and, along with contaminants, is easily removed. Caring components provide moisturizing and nutrition of the cleansed epidermis, relief of inflammation, rejuvenation.

Some girls are afraid to use hydrophilic oil for oily skin, assuming that it will worsen its condition, provoke acne and the formation of purulent acne. This is a delusion, the product in question does not clog pores and does not activate the activity of the sebaceous glands. It cleanses the problematic epidermis much better, prevents the occurrence of rashes and comedones, and does not violate the lipid barrier.

hydrophilic oil harm

Hydrophilic oil – harm

The most frightening ingredients in the products described are emulsifiers. Polysorbate is a common component in cosmetics. It is a surfactant (nonionic surfactant) and a solvent. This chemical is derived from vegetable fat, predominantly olive and coconut. Polysorbate 80 is often found in facial hydrophilic oil; this emulsifier can cause harm only if you are allergic to it. If there are no hypersensitivity reactions, it is completely safe to use cosmetics with this surfactant.

Hydrophilic oil – rating

After the release of the product by several Korean companies, most cosmetic companies, including famous brands, began to produce such products.

Choosing the best hydrophilic oil among the many offers is difficult, so it’s easier to make a purchase based on the list of top products:

  • NYX Stripped Off Cleansing Oil;
  • Kose Softymo Deep Cleansing Oil;
  • Erborian Solid Cleansing Oil;
  • MAC Cleanse Off Oil;
  • Shu Uemura Porefinist;
  • The Body Shop Camomile Silky Cleansing Oil;
  • Clinique Take The Day Off Cleansing Oil;
  • Holika Holika All Kill Gudetama Cleanser Oil;
  • Etude House Real Art Cleansing Oil;
  • L’Occitane Immortel Oil Make-Up Remover.

DIY hydrophilic oil

Quality cosmetics are expensive and not always easy to find, especially if you don’t live in a big city. In such a situation, instructions on how to make hydrophilic oil yourself are useful. To do this, you need the same ingredients that make up professional products:

  • vegetable base fats;
  • ethers;
  • emulsifier.

Hydrophilic oil – polysorbate

The classic recipe requires the purchase of a special solvent that turns the indicated agent into a slightly foamy substance. Hydrophilic oil for the face mainly contains the emulsifier polysorbate 80, less often – 20.


  1. In a clean container, mix the basic vegetable fats, shake well.
  2. Add ethers. All oils used should be suitable for the type of skin and correspond to its oiliness.
  3. Gently add an emulsifier to the resulting mixture in a proportion of 10% for every 100 ml of the composition, mix the liquids thoroughly.

Hydrophilic oil without polysorbate

The mechanism of action of the described agent is based on its ability to dissolve in water and turn into an emulsion. Do-it-yourself hydrophilic oil without polysorbate will simply be a mixture of vegetable fats. The emulsifier must be added without fail, preferably marked “80” on the label. If you do not want to buy polysorbate, there is its analogue – twin. This is an absolutely identical surfactant that dissolves fat in water to form an emulsion.

How to use hydrophilic oil?

Washing with the proposed product is performed mainly in the evening, when it is necessary to remove cosmetics and dirt accumulated in the pores during the day. A hydrophilic oil is especially necessary for facial skin when using BB and CC creams, which are not amenable to micellar water and milk that removes makeup. In order for the procedure to produce the expected effect, it is important to follow the correct washing technique.

Cleansing with hydrophilic oil is carried out in several stages:

  1. Take a small amount of product onto clean, dry fingers. Rub their face.
  2. The skin should be dry, you can pre-wet it with a paper towel.
  3. Gently rub your face with hydrophilic oil for 2-3 minutes. Some women prefer to increase this period to a quarter of an hour, while performing a skin massage in parallel with cleansing.
  4. Moisten your fingers with water and quickly, without pressure, rub your face again. The oil should emulsify and begin to foam a little.
  5. Wash well with room temperature water.
  6. For the final removal of hydrophilic oil and dirt, use foam or gel.